Table of Contents
PART I: Snow in Srinagar 
  Reaching Srinagar
  The city of fame
  Rainy afternoon in ...
  Up the Sindh river in a doonga
  Snow in Srinagar
  Chilai Kalan
  Crossing the Vitasta
  Journey into the Himalayas
  Ishbar evenings
  Pony ride in the Liddar valley
  Views of Haramukh
  My father in Hawaii
PART II: Ten Thousand Years of Solitude 
  The Fire in the Waters
  Records of our lives
  Ask Krishna
  The Conductor of the dead
  A Wounded bird
  The riddle of Isha
  Patanjali's song
  The hidden path up the hill
  Inner Sarasvati
  Naming things
  On high desert
  A small beginning
  Seeking answers
  Nachiketa's dual
  Quantum implications
  Chance and necessity
  A Boy and his dog
  Book in pdf format

Koshur Music

An Introduction to Spoken Kashmiri



Reaching Srinagar

As the dusty bus crosses the Banihal tunnel
the air becomes scented and zippy
and the passengers break out into a loud cheer. 

We strain into the distance
to guess where Verinag might be
to begin tracing Vitasta's course. 

At Kazigund we order egg paranthas
and now the driver races through---
Kashmiri songs blaring on the radio---
Khanabal, Bijbehara
the ruins of Avantipura
the saffron fields of Pampur
and then to the kulcha shops further on.
It is quite dark when we reach Srinagar. 

We wait in a corner as father gets our holdalls and trunks
and we climb aboard the tonga---
horseshoes flashing in the dark
against the asphalt of the road.



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