SN Gurkha
Shri SN Gurkha joined Journalism in 1954. On completion of his five decades in journalism, he visits down memory lane to recapture his early life and engagement with Urdu journalism for our readers. Presently, he lives as a refugee in Nagrota camp.
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My years in Journalism-A Memoir
By Shamboo Nath Gurkha
Our family lived in Budhgaer quarter of downtown Srinagar. This locality was a predominantly Pandit locality as were many other parts of the old city. This place was once the seat of power of King Rinchin, a Buddhist fugitive from Ladakh, who ascended the throne of Kashmir in 14th Century. The locality derives its name from King Rinchin.
I was born in Razdan family of the same locality, but was given in adoption to Gurkha family. Gurkha surname/nickname is shared by some members of the majority community too. Originally, Gurkhas were Kauls, with Gotra of Swami Kaushik. Initially these Kauls adopted the appellation ‘Waguzaris’ and finally the Gurkhas. This is the way most of the surnames of Kashmiris have evolved.
My father Pt. Shridhar Kaul Gurkha worked in the Accountant General’s office as Superintendent. He had read up to matriculation. He and his cousin Pt. Bal Kak set up a joint business, titled ‘Gwash Lal-Vishnjoo (father of Pt. Shridhar joo) and Sons’. This firm dealt in Import-Export business in items like handicrafts, Saffron, Musk, Rafal and Pashmina.
Pt. Janki Nath Trisal, son of Pt. Shridhar Joo’s sister used to stay at the parental house of his mother. After passing F.Sc., my father sent him and Balkak to Lahore to learn the trade of Soap manufacturing. On return, they set up a unit, titled. Himalaya Soap Works’ at Zainakadal. Pt. Kashyap Bandhu took great pride in our entrepreneurial initiative. Through his efforts, Mr. VN Mehta, the then minister for Revenue alloted 4 kanals of nazool land at Shireen Bagh Karanagar, where Dental College stands today, for 40 years. Modern machinery was installed, when the unit shifted to the new place. This soap became quite popular. After sometime our family added a Hosiery/Weaving Unit, ‘Mahalaxmi Hosiery and Weaving Mills! Initially, we used to import these items from Ludhiana. Peer Yahya Shah, a labour union leader who later rose to be Deputy Minister for Industry, was our employee. Subsequently, we installed a candle manufacturing unit, ‘Moonlight Candle Works’.
I had my primary education at Govt. School Rangteng and passed matriculation from Bagh Dilawar Khan School in 1940. Punjab University used to conduct these examinations. I joined Sri Pratap College for further studies and passed F.A. in 1942-43. Among my schoolmates who reached prominent positions in later life were Mr. Moti Lal Sopori (secretary in J&K Govt.), Poshkar Nath Bhan (an ace broadcaster, and an artist of repute), Mr. Kashi Nath Bakshi (a philonthropist), Pirzada Ghulam Nabi (Chief Engineer Power Development), Mohd. Abdulla Qadri (Deputy AG, Himachal Pradesh), Janki Nath Thusoo (Secretary J&K Govt.). After the installation of unit at the new place, our family also shifted to Karanagar, where we lived in the vicinity of ‘Stone House’ of Kilams and Warikoos. I was married in 1948 in Zalpuri family of Rainawari. We continued to live in this house till 1952. In 1967 disturbances our Karan Nagar house was put to arson.
Our family business worked well. The government helped by providing subsidy on raw materials, offering tax concessions and imposing heavy duty on imported soap. In 1953, Shri GL Dogra, the cabinet minister favoured the firm of Kishanchand-Bhola Nath of Amritsar, which manufactured Soap 999 and reduced the import duty. Gurkhas could not compete against this firm. Family disputes in our family and the competition ruined our business. I had been associated with family business from 1943-1952. I was jobless and shifted to Rainawari.
Journalism:
During my adolescence years, I was acquainted well with Milap, Martand and other prominent Urdu weeklies except PN Bazaz’s Hamdard. Pt. Kashyap Bandhu was quite close to our family and often visited us since we were the financiers of Martand and Yuvak Sabha. Bandhuji suggested to me to look for employment somewhere. We had once 70 people in our employment. To serve some employer in a subordinatre position looked humiliating to me. I sought his advice to join the profession of journalism. This was the time when there was little scope in this profession..
I joined apprenticeship for Katib under the supervision of my brother Shri Kashi Nath Razdan. He was rated among the best calligraphists of northern India of those times. I worked hard to gain the experience in this field. This lasted for one year. My brother wanted me to join Shama, a well-known Urdu periodical. Meanwhile a vacancy in the local daily ‘Khidmat’ had been advertised. I joined the paper, at a remuneration of Rs 40 a month.
‘Khidmat’ was a pro-government newspaper, owned by the ruling National Conference. Since the headquarters of National Conference was at Mujahid Manzil, the editorial office of ‘Khidmat’ and the ‘New Kashmir Press’ were also housed here. After some time ‘Khidmat’ office was shifted to Bund area. Subsequently, it was taken over by the Congress Party. Its editor was Maulana Syed Masoodi. After the dismissal of Sheikh Abdullah in 1953, Mr.Mohammad Amin Pandit functioned as editor for while. During the editorship of Shri NL Wattal, Mr MA Pandit worked as joint editor. Mr Pandit was honest in dealings and was a sound administrator. The paper had three brilliant Assistant editors - Shri Bansi Nirdosh (News Editor), Sofi Ghulam Mohd, Sh. Makhan Lal Mahaw. Mr Nirdosh was a literary genius. His play “Dechirant” became quite popular. Nirdosh was helpful to his collegues. He engaged in bitter polemics with Pt. RC Abhay, and the latter had finally to concede. Nirdosh worked partime in Aftab also.
Sofi Sahib was a well-known short-story writer in Kashmiri. The literary talents of Messers Nirdosh and Sofi Ghulam Mohammad made ‘Khidmat’ very popular. Sofi Sahib’s “Bechhakath” was liked immensely by the people. Another assistant editor was Mr. Gh. Nabi Turi, who later joined State Information Department. Mr. Sham Lal Saraf, the then Cabinet Minister was Chairman of the Press Committee of ‘Khidmat’, while Mr. Prithvi Nath Kaul was General Manager. The latter enjoyed proximity to Bakshi Rashid, brother of Prime Minister Bakshi Ghulam Mohd. He had taken over after there were some allegations for irregularities against Mr. Ghulam Mohi-ud-Din. Shri Sham Lal Wali was Head Katib.
My interesting memories about the days at ‘Khidmat’ are some instances which relate how the government of the day handled the paper and its staff. Once, Shri MA Pandit had gone to visit Nishat Bagh. On seeing him there, the Prime Minister Sheikh Abdullah had felt quite annoyed. On another occasion, when Shri SL Saraf visited the press, Mr PN Kaul, General Manager, presented him the gradation list of the staff. When Shri SL Saraf showed indifference. Mr Kaul lost his temper and told Mr Saraf, “You were illiterate and have became a minister. Has this gone to your head”. Mr Kaul was recuperating from heart attack. Unable to bear the humiliation, he collapsed the next day. Mr PN Kaul was an efficient administrator. He mobilised advertisement support to make ‘Khidmat’ self-sufficient.
Bakshi Rashid once rang up Shri Nand Lal Wattal. The phone was picked up by Gh. Rasool Arif, an employee of the paper. He had stammering speech. Bakshi Rashid could not make out what he was saying and abused Arif. The later told Mr. Wattal that Bakshi Rashid had abused the editor. A man with dignity, Mr PN Kaul talked to Bakshi Rashid. He told him”, I don’t require your job. You have started even abusing the editor’. Bakshi Rashid narrated him the sequence of his talk and told him Arif had misrepresented the facts to his editor. The following day Bakshi Rashid came to the ‘Khidmat’ office and slapped Arif. The management even wanted to sack Arif for this.
The Katib, Mr. Wali for sometime had been referring to the Chief Minister as Bakshi “Ghulam” only in news head lines of Khidmat. This came to the notice of the Chief Minister. Incidentally, PoK Radio in its propaganda had been using the same name for the Prime Minister. Mr Bakshi in a lighter vein enquired from the editor, “where have you brought this Muslim from PoK. Is he not happy with my name?” Visibly embarrassed Mr. Wattal told him the error had been committed by a Kashmiri Pandit, Mr Wali. On another occasion, a serious lapse occurred when the paper carried a byline ‘Bakshi Ghulam Mohd. Ki Wafat Par’. Next morning, the paper made brisk sales. The workers felt angry and excited. ‘Khidmat’ staff cut sorry figure. The editor tactfully avoided taking up calls from the PM’s office. Six months later, the PM told Mr. Wattal to carry on the business as usual and prepare a rejoinder for Mr. GM Sadiq, who had floated DNC.
In 1968 after his release from jail, Sheikh Abdullah one fine morning forced his way into the office of ‘Khidmat’ and the ‘New Kashmir Press’ and locked these. He said the press and paper would be shifted to Auqaf building at Budshah Chowk. This decision was strongly resented by the staff. They requested Sheikh Abdullah to allow them to take blocks and other material that were to be printed as advertisement. He gave them a weeks time. For nearly ten days the New Kashmir Press functioned from the Auqaf building.
During my years at ‘Khidmat’, I came closer to Mir Ghulam Mohd. Rajouri, who later became minister and speaker. He was widely read, liberal, an intellectual who surpassed his peers and had flair for writing. Mr Rajouri remained as secretary of Legislature Party and later held portfolios of Education,Transport, Industries and Health. As Health Minister, he deducted pay of Accounts Officer for negligence in informing the department about the retirement of an official in time. After Kamraj Plan, he joined Congress-O. He was President of the Organisation, while Mr BK Vaishnavi was its General Secretary. In the 1967 assembly elections, he was dropped from the list of candidates selected by ruling Congress to contest elections. Syed Mir Qasim had resigned from the Presidentship of the State Congress. Mr Rajpouri went to meet Sadiq. Mr Mir Qasim was also there. The chief minister, referring to Mir Qasim, told Mr. Rajpouri that Qasim was tired of politics and read out a newly composed verse of poet Dina Nath Nadim to indicate this fatigue. To avoid direct reply, the chief minister asked Mr. Rajpouri to meet DC Anantnag and himself left for Jammu. Rajpouri contested as an independent against Gh. Qadir Mir of Murran. A mischievous cartoon was drawn to mock at Gh. Qadir Mir, a lower rung worker then. Ten thousand pamphlets were also distributed. This made no impact and Mr Rajpouri lost. The ongoing factionalism between Mir Qasim and GM Sadiq hurt interests of Mr Rajpouri, first at selection level and later during elections.
Mr Rajpouri, stunned by this defeat, retreated into journalism. He launched weekly ‘Imroz’, which did not go beyond four issues. The first issue of the weekly carried an analysis of the political situation, in which Mr. Rajpouri had delineated four trends.
When Mr Rajpouri launched Jahan-e-Nav as a daily in 1969. I was appointed as its editor publisher and printer. It used to be a weekly after it was started on 13 May 1955. It became a daily later. Mr. Rajpouri could write in Urdu and english with ease. Our editorial staff included Messers Tahir Muztar, Jagar Nath Khyberi and Parwaaz Qureishi as Assistant Editor. One Deepak Kashmiri, an employee of the State Transport Department also contributed articles besides preparing Sunday Film edition in colour. He hailed from Budgam and later became a choreographer in Bollywood. His father was District President of National Conference in Budgam. Deepak worked partime for Jahan-e-Nav. Jagar Nath Khyberi’s satirical column increased readership of the paper manifold. Mr. Muztar wrote editorials and looked after the news section. State government had stopped giving advertisements to Jahan-e-Nav. We got DAVP ads. People also gave donations. Jahan-e-Nav sold around 2000 copies. It made good impact. This unnerved the state government. Mr Rajpouri was principle contributor in writing. Jahan-e-Nav, unearthed scam in the Food and Supplies Department. ‘Chinar’ led personal on Mr Rajpouri, caricaturing and debunking him as Rajkapoori, Band-master etc. The State government also tried to implicate him in case of Paddy seedlings in Pulwama district. All this was done to silence Jahan-e-Nav.
In late 1960s there was mushroom growth of Urdu newspaper. Papers like Daily Chinar (edited by Peer Giyasdin), Daily Aftab (edited by Khwaja Sonaullah), Srinagar Times (edited by Sofi Ghulam Mohd.), Naya Sansar (edited by Gh. Rasool Urfani), Navjivan were launched. Daily Hamdard was being edited by Gh. Rasool Arif, who was Katib of Khidmat. Martand was critical of Sadiq administration on the issue of communal quota policy of 70:30. Srinagar Times was avowedly critical of administration. JN Khyberi wrote a scathing satire ‘Gadisaaz’ on Sadiq. Soon after this administration ordered closure of Jahan-e-Nav and Srinagar Times. The latter resumed its publication after two months. Mr Rajpouri wanted me to start the paper again but I was reluctant. Ban on the paper was a frustrating experience for me.
1967 Agitation:
During Pandit agitation of 1967, Khidmat’s policy remained neutral and did not take any sides. In an incident at Fatehkadal, police lathicharged the protest demonstration of Pandits. A 70 year old Pandit fell unconscious after receiving few blows. An old Haji took the Pandit to his house and nursed him. The following day he himself took the injured to his home. The Haji went to see Mr. Rajpuri and asked him if Sadiq was going to kill even 70 year old Pandits. What right has Sadiq to call himself secular, he asked. Mr Rajpouri told him that since he was related to Sadiq he should himself go to put forth his complaint. The Haji told Sadiq,” I was an eyewitness to brutal canecharge on a 70 year old Pandit. Throughout night I felt restless”. Sadiq phoned up Rajpouri. He told him he already knew about the incident.
A man-eater Lion, brought from Kargil was let loose for few minutes to frighten people arrested in 1967 agitation. Pt. Sham Lal Shastri (Shalla) editor of Desh, who too was detained, received few injuries, before his fellow-prisoners could over power the Lion.
One evening during the 1967 agitation, a police party landed at my residence to arrest me. During this agitation the police detained people without any warrants. They had confused my name with my neighbour Pt. Shamboo Nath Mujoo. When they asked me if I was Pt. SN Mujoo I replied in negative. I knew they had to arrest me. I rang up Mr. Rajpouri and protested in making life hell for me while they enjoyed. Mr. Rajpouri spoke to Sadiq, saying, “have you to kill all Pandits. Mr. Gurkha is working with Khidmat and Jahan-e-Nav and is serving you people only. What has he done”. Rajpouri also spoke to Syed Mir Qasim and Gh. Rasool Renzu, the Home Secretary. It was after this incident that the police restrained from detaining Pandits without proper warrants. Most of the Gazetted officers among Kashmiri Pandits of Rainawari, including Sh. Vishnath Jalali, Marshal of Assembly were detained.
Desh:
Pt. Kashyap Bandhu had launched ‘Martand’ on behalf of Yuvak Sabha in 1931 and remained associated with it till 1938. After differences with Yuvak Sabha, he floated ‘Kesari’, an Urdu weekly. Later, he launched ‘Desh’ as a weekly. Such columns ‘Pagal Ki Diary’, ‘Man Ki Mouj’, ‘Challant’, written by Pt. Kashyap Bandhu became extremely popular. Pt. Gangadhar Bhat Dehati of Murran was sub-editor of the paper. In 1947 Bandhu Ji handed over the paper to Sham Lal Shastri. Desh was the first paper to highlight the cause of peasantry in Kashmir and attacked usury, corruption etc.
Pt. Ramchand Abhay was associated with Desh since 1947 and discharged editorial responsibilities. Kashmiri Pandits had two associations-SD Yuvak Sabha and Samaj Sudhar Samiti, headed by Pt. Gopi Krishan of ‘Kundalini’fame. The Martand was mouth-piece of the former. Sudhar Samiti’s organ was Jyoti (started in 1948). It used to be printed from Shivala and Pt. RC Abhay was its first editor. I worked partime with ‘Desh’ from 1955 to 1967. In 1967 Prof. Omkar Nath Bhat, who taught English at Vishwa Bharti College, was its editor. He was brother-in-law of late Janki Ganju. Prof. Bhat was a fine person and a capable journalist. He also wrote commentaries for the Radio. Before this assignment he performed the job of editor for weekly‘Rehnuma’ owned by Mubarak Shah Qadiri. Mr. M.S. Qadiri was a teacher. He had become a member of upper house after having defeated poet Dina Nath Nadim. Pt. Triloki Nath Handoo (later associated with Sarda and Indian Times) was Assistant editor of ‘Desh’. Mr. Makhan Lal Mahav joined ‘Desh’ in 1967 as a parttimer. He wrote powerful satire. Bakshi Gh. Mohd. was a great fan of Mahav’s ‘Lateefe’. Mahav was quite innovative and enriched the paper with new ideas. Khwaja Khazar Magribi also wrote satire in ‘Desh’. Pt. Som Nath Ganjoo was an employee of ‘Desh’. During 1967 agitation ‘Desh’highlighted atrocites and discrimination against Kashmiri Pandits.
Martand:
I joined Martand in 1970. Pt. Shamboo Nath Kachroo was editor besides being printer and publisher but Shri JN Khyberi After Khyberi was executive editor. After him the mantle of editorship passed on to me. Martand was a 4-page daily paper. The paper had no editorial staff or reporters. Mr. Prithvi Nath Bhat was its manager, while Shri Dina Nath Ogra managed the accounts. Soon after Sheikh Abdullah took over the reins of government in 1975 monthly paper of State Information Department carried a sectarian write-up‘Kashmiri Pandit Firka Parast’ (though the paper’s brief was to cover only developmental issues). Strangely, a copy of this issue was not sent to me. We couldn’t understand the motive behind this write-up, which threatened to provoke communal animosity against Pandit minority. ‘Martand’ serialized my rejoinder in four parts. This unnerved the people behind this derogatory write-up. I was called by the Principal Information officer and asked why I was attacking the Sheikh Abdullah government. I edited Martand for 6 years. It sold 1800 copies.
I left Martand in 1981 and joined Morning Times, owned by Bashir Ahmed Naushad. It was a daily paper and served as official organ of youth federation. The paper committed a faux paus on the occasion of death anniversary of Shamim Ahmed Shamim. Sheikh Abdullah was still alive. Instead of writing ‘Shamim Ki Wafat Par’ it wrote ‘Sheikh Abdullah Ki Wafat Par’. There was great hue and cry. The lapse was on the part of Katib Master, Shri Mohd. Shafi and not on the part of a ‘Jansanghi’ as alleged by Late Maqbool Ahmed one of the veteran journalists of Kashmir.
After leaving Morning Times, I had brief stints at Daily Wullar, owned by Sh. Gh. Mohd. Dar, Daily Naqashband, owned by Bashir Bin Qasimi, a contractor and a good draftsman, Srinagar Express , owned by Abdul Rehman Mir (cousin of Mir Lasjan) and Vakil, owned by Shri Poshkar Nath Vakil. Mr GM Dar would also write for the paper and pursued a pro-NC and pro-India line.The other papers also broadly followed a policy which did not hurt national interests. I worked with Vakil from 1984 to 1988. It was associated with Hindu Mahasabha and sold 500-600 copies. It got advertisements worth Rs 8000 per month. Vakil sold 200 copies.
In 1988 I launched my own daily ‘Bahar-i-Kashmir’ (circulation 1000 copies). On 19 May, 1990 after the terrorist attack on my house, I had to move to Jammu. At that time Shri Makhan Lal Mahav and myself were the only two Pandit journalists staying put in Valley, despite all odds. In 1990 myself and Shri ML Kaul, formerly Joint Director of AIR started an Urdu Weekly ‘Jan Shakti’. I brought out my own ‘Janat-i-Kashmir’, weekly in 1994. I continues to survive.
I had also the privilege to cover Assembly proceeding both before and after 1990 for Radio Kashmir. During my journalistic career I had the privilege to cover visits of such luminaries-General Cariappa, Marshal Bulganin and Nikita Khurshchev and President Sanjeeva Reddy. Soon after Wazawan session was over, Khrushchev, overwhelmed by huge reception, told the audience. “If you have any difficulty, you go up the hill and shout at us. We will come to your help’. Shri Jagar Nath Khyberi and Mr Rajpouri have been my ‘Gurus’(teachers) in journalism. I wrote editorials for ‘Desh’ and discussed these with editor Shri Sh Shastri. He was a very mature person with good grasp of politics.
Men, Matters and Memories - Downtown Srinagar
By Shamboo Nath Gurkha
IN the pre-Independence era the city of Srinagar, was described by its inhabitants as ‘City of Seven bridges.’ The bridges were Amirakadal, Habbakadal, Fateh Kadal, Zainakadal, Alikadal, Nawakadal and Safakadal. The area between Fatehkadal and Safakadal has its own uniqueness. It houses important historical places and was the hub of social, political and business activities.
On the two banks of river Jehlum (Vitasta) at Ali Kadal stood two grand residential buildings owned by Kaul brothers - Hara kaul and Pt. Prakash Kaul. Their father Ram Kaul1 was a man of ordinary means and could barely look after the needs of the family. He supplemented his meagre income by undertaking the job of ‘Paniyur’ (water carrier). He would carry water from river in earthern pitchers and supply it to the families of rich people in his neighbourhood.
Birth of his son Pt. Hara Kaul brought change in his luck. When Hara Kaul grew of adolescence age he started his own business as a banker. He would lend money on interest even to the govt. He built a huge fortune of Rs 12 lacs. Pt. Ram Kaul invested this fortune in real estate, purchasing innumerable houses (some say 614) in and around the Srinagar city.
Maharaja Pratap Singh, who ruled the state, issued a fiat that Pt. Ram Kaul should not be allowed to purchase any more house. Soon the two Kaul brothers, Hara Kaul and Prakash Kaul were involved in a dispute over business and property. They sought the intervention of the court. One of the parties engaged the services of Sir Tej Bahadur Sapru, the leading jurist of the time. A houseboat for his stay was provided at Ganderbal and a car was kept at his disposal. In those times the only two people to own cars in Kashmir were Maharaja Pratap Singh and Pt. Ram Kaul. Sir Tej Bhadur Sapru was paid Rs 500 daily during his stay at Srinagar.
Pt. Amar Nath Kak, elder brother of Sh. RC Kak, was a close relation of Prakash Kaul. He had passed his graduation but was unemployed. Prakash paid Kak Rs 600 for purchasing Law books. Though Kak was not a qualified lawyer yet he represented his relation.
Subsequently, he was to emerge as a successful and competent lawyer. Protracted litigation ruined Kaul brothers. They had to sell virtually the whole moveable/immovable property. Meanwhile Prakash’s elder son after passing his graduation started his own business under the title M/S Prakash Seed Farm. The seed business worked well and brought the family huge profits. The family purchased the palatial bungalow of M/s Cock Burn Agency situated at Kothi Bagh. He shifted the office and residence to this new building.
Pt. Hara kaul had a son, Pt. Sona Kaul. The latter’s son Pt. Madsudan Kaul after doing his MBBS from Calcutta started his own practice in Srinagar. A successful doctor Pt. Madsudan would never charge consultation fees from his neighbours. He had great humility. Subsequently, he joined the State Health Department, retiring as Assistant Supdt. of SMHS Hospital.
Another scion of the Kaul clan was Pt. Srikanth Kaul who later was elected as a member of the State Assembly. He also worked as general secretary of Santan Dharam Yuvak Sabha and President Red cross at different times.
Pt. Ram Kaul had built a temple at Mahraj Ganj on the bank of River Jehlum. His cousin Pt. Amarchand Kaul constructed a temple at Hari Parbat near the Hari.
Aali Kadal
The numerous mohallas in this era included Malchimar, Budhgair, Wazapora, Sheikh mohalla, Mohalla Reshi Peer, Batayar, Rajouri Kadal, Kawdara, Mohalla Usi Sahib. The well known shrine of Usi Sahib is located between the Aali Kadal Bridge and Batyar ghat on the bank of river Jehlum.
The shrine owes its importance to the story that the mother of Saint Reshi Peer had darshan of Harmukt Ganga at this place. As per this account the mother of the saint desired to go on a pilgrimmage to Gangabal. Old age and deteriorating health forbade her to undertake this risk. Moved by his mother's desire the saint invoked his spiritual powers. Goddess Ganga appeared on the day of Ganga Ashtami at the spot where shrine of Usi Sahib is located. The saint asked his mother to have the dip in the river three times, telling her that the goddess Ganga had appeared at the spot on his request. The holy mother had the satisfaction of visiting Ganga (read Gangabal) after taking the dip.
In a temple at Batyar ghat there is an old Shivling. Batyar has been the home of noted Engineer, Pt. Laxman Joo Tickoo. It was he who had constructed the Banihal-Cart road, linking Srinagar with Jammu.
Bulbul Lankar:
The mohalla named after the renowned Sufi saint, Syed Bulbul Shah, is adjacent to Batayar. The palatial bungalow of the leading Pashimina Trader, Ahmedullah Shahdad is located at Bulbul Lankar on the bank of Jehlum. His business extended to Central Asia, Yarkand and China. The trader was a close relation of Sheikh Mohd. Abdullah.
Bulbul Lankar has also been home to leading educationists - Pt. Shyam Lal Labroo, Pt. Bishamber Nath Trakroo, Pt. Aftab Joo Wanchoo etc. Sh Wanchoo is also known as biographer of some Kashmiri Saints. Pt. Shyam Lal Raina, a native of the mohalla, retired as Inspector of Schools in Himachal Pradesh. The historic temple of Shri Narayan Joo, housing an idol of Lord Visnu, is also located in the mohalla.
A part of the mohalla is known as Munshi mohalla after the Munshi clan. The other landmarks – Munshi Yarbal and Munshi Kocha too are connected with the clan. Ruins of some buildings, probably belonging to the Munshis are located here on the bank of Nala Mar. Pt. Amar Chand Munshi had been a high official in the Revenue Department during the reign of Maharaja Hari Singh. His eldest son too was a high official.
The other notable personalities of Bulbul Lankar include - Pt. Bishamber Nath Chattoo, an educationist, his nephew, Sh. Kashi Nath Dulloo, Pt. Bishamber Nath Jyotshi, a high official in state govt, etc. Padamshri JN Koul, Director SOS had spent his early years in Bulbul lankar at his aunt's house. Pt. Kashi Nath Dulloo, who died recently used to practise medicine. He participated actively in community's social life, rising to general secretary post in SD Yuvak Sabha, Shital Nath. After resigning from Yuvak Sabha he joined Samaj Sudhar Samiti, Chota Bazar. For a while he remained its general secretary.
During the tribal raid many Kashmiri Pandits had been forcibly converted to Islam. Dulloo was one of the workers who toured the affected areas under the aegis of Yuvak Sabha to reconvert them to their original faith.
Kawadara-Budhgair
Mohalla Kawdara and Malchimar are located near Bulbul Lankar. The former is famous for its Hak (a green leafy vegetable). Renowned mystic poet Ahad Zargar hailed from Narwara-Kawdara. Between Kawdara and Malchimar is the mohalla of Budhgair. The latter derives its name from the seat of an ancient Vihara which stood here.
Budhgair has remained home to leading families in the past as well as present. During the reign of Mughals Pt. Narayan Joo Bhan, it is said, used to go to his office, riding on elephant. He used to wear diamond neklaces around his neck.
A big (Deodi) gate made of wood used to lead entrance to his palatial buildings. This had been constructed to allow unhindered entry to his elephant. The unique gate had been named ‘Bhana deed’ (Gate of Bhans). A huge plot adjacent to his house was called ‘Bhana Bagh’. Such was the affluence of the family that even the street (Bhana Kocha) and river front on Nallah Mar (Bhana Yarbal) were named after the clan.
Munificent Mughal Governor had bestowed big Jagirs to Pt. Narayan Joo Bhan at Nesbal (near Waskur, Sonawari). The ruins of the Narayan Bhan’s residential buildings stand even to this day.
Pt. Jia Lal Bhan, a direct descendent of Pt. Narayan Joo Bhan served in Nedous Hotel, Srinagar. Another resident of Budhgair - Pt. Neel Kanth Teli was also an employee of the same hotel. Sh Narayan Kaul was a big landlord and an orchardist. His estate was located at Seer Jagir. He had three sons - Sh Lassa Kak Kaul (retired as Judge), Prem Nath Kaul served as Ward officer in Srinagar Municipality, while the youngest one was also a govt. official.
Pt. Dina Nath Fotedar, an eminent educationist retired as Head Master Hari Singh School, Rainawari. He had done MA, LLB. After retirement he started practice in local courts. The other prominent citizens of Budhgair included Prof. TN Bhan, Sh. Moti Lal Jailkhani, Sh. Fera Bhat etc. The latter was a leading footballer of his time. He was known for hitting the ball into the goal post right from the centre of the field. Pt. Sarwanand Charagi, BA LT was a reputed educationist. He has written a biography of Mata Roop Bhawani and other saints and Mystics.
Another well known personality of Budghair mohalla was Pt. Shamboo Nath Ogra. He was a reputed social worker. His uncle Amar Nath Ogra retired as Supdt. Central Jail, Srinagar. Pt. Shyam Lal Razdan, who edited Urdu daily‘Sharda’ also belonged to this mohalla. The other prominent figures included Pt. Jia Lal Moza (Khurdi), his youngest son Pt. Kanya Lal Moza , Pt. Omkar Nath Trisal, Pt. Kashi Nath Razdan, etc. Late KL Moza was a leading Trade Unionist and remained Gen. Secretary of All India Postal employees union. He also headed a NGO Kalapvrakasha Trust, New Delhi. This organisation provided books free of cost to the needy among the displaced members of Kashmiri Pandit community.
Sh Omkar Nath Trisal, who presently heads All Kashmiri Pandits Solidarity Conference has been in active politics for more than six decades. He was a close comrade-in-arms of Pt. Moti Lal Misri, one of the founders of communist movement in Kashmir. Subsequently, the two joined National Conference and took active part in ‘Quit Kashmir’ agitation. In 1953 after the dismissal of Sheikh Abdullah few political leaders dared to visit interiors of the city. It was Pt. Omkar Nath Trisal alongwith Messers Moti Lal Misri, Ghazi Abdul Rehman, Gh. Ahmed Kichloo and Shaban Gada who led a massive procession from Bulbulankar to the official residence of Prime Minister Bakshi Gh. Mohd. It was the first pro-Indian rally after August 9, 1953. The rallyists shouted slogans - ‘Bharat Mata Ki Jai’,‘Azad Hindustan Zind-abad’, ‘Hindu Muslim-Sikh Itihad Zindabad’. This rally boosted the confidence of not only pro-Indian elements in valley but also the new incumbent in office, Bakshi Gh. Mohd.
Among the Razdan family of Budhgair were Sh. Kashi Nath, a well known Katib, his younger brothers - Niranjan Nath, an eminent educationist and Sh. Chaman Lal, who retired as Deputy Controller of Kashmir University. The latter has authored few books on Bhagwan Gopi Nath. The author of this writeup too hails from this family. He was given in adoption to Pt. Shridhar Kaul Gorkha, a resident of the same locality. This writer learnt the art of Kitabat under the care of his elder brother, Pt. Kashi Nath and went on to edit several urdu dailies - Jahan-e-Nau, Vakil, Martand, Bahar-e-Kashmir. He continues to edit ‘Janat-e-Kashmir’ in Jammu since 1994.
Bulbul Lankar:
A part of this mohalla was covered in the first part of this write-up. Other prominent personalities who lived in Bulbul Lankar included Sh. Moti Lal Misri, a veteran communist leader, Sh. Radha Krishan Saproo alias 'Raed Chalak', Messers Mohammed Shaban Gada, Ghulam Ahmed Kichloo, Gazi Abdul Rehman and Bakshi brothers-Amarnath, Janki Nath and Shiv Nath etc.
Late Moti Lal Misri was at one time General Secretary of the Communist Unit in Kashmir. He was a member of National Conference. He did not opt for government service and used to practise at Srinagar High Court. Radhakrishan Saproo retired as Headmaster CMS Middle School, Nawakadal. Messers Shaban Gada, G.A. Kichloo and Gazi Rehman were senior NC functionaries and close confidants of Bakshi Ghulam Mohammed, former Chief Minister.
Bakshi brothers were high officials in J&K government during the rule of Maharaja. Pt. Amar Nath Bakshi retired as Secretary development. In 1947 he had been posted as Wazir Wazarat to Muzaffarabad. Due to his hospitalisation Mehta Duni Chand had been asked to take the new assignment. Pt. Janki Nath Bakshi retired as Inspector Customs, a rank one step below Inspector General. The Customs and Excise Department those days was directly under the Maharaja. Pt. Shiv Nath Bakshi was P.A. to Chief Justice of J&K High Court. Pt. Kashi Nath Bakshi, a scion of Bakshi clan has donated over Rs ten lakhs to different religious and social institutions. This includes Rs 5 lakh to Ramakrishna Ashram at Udaywala, Jammu. Besides, has helped raise one room with kitchen and bathroom at Mata Roop Bhawani Ashram at Talab Tillo, Jammu. Presently, Pt. Kashi Nath Bakshi is putting up at Ramakrishna Ashram at Chotta Bazar, Srinagar.
Reshipeer Mohalla:
This mohalla is named after the great saint, Reshi Peer who lived here. A prominent personality of this mohalla was Sh. Jia Lal Saraf, a renowned Sanskrit scholar with great proficiency in Astrology. He has authored many religious texts. A leading Kathawachak of his times and gifted with melodious voice Pt. Jia Lal Saraf translated Panchastavi and other religious books into Kashmiri language. He was involved in his family business which was run under the title of M/s H.R. Jia Lal and Co. Later on, he started his own hotel 'Naya Kashmir Hotel' at Lal Chowk, Srinagar. Sh. Saraf and Pt. Nilakanth Nehru would together go to Hari Parbat on every Saturday evening and recite bhajans and leelas the whole night in praise of Mata Sharika. Subsequently, the two parted company. While Sh. Saraf shifted his venue to Pokhribal, Pt. Nilakanth Nehru continued to go to Chakreshwar.
Two prominent families of Reshipeer mohalla included those of Reazi and Adalati. Pt. Ramchand Reazi was an eminent educationist. His son, Sh. Radha Krishan was Science Master at State High School, Baghe-e-Dilawar Khan, Srinagar. Sh. Laxmi Narayan Tangnoo, a jeweller, also hailed from this mohalla. His shop 'P.ALLEN' Jewellers was located at Kothi Bagh, Srinagar.
Pt. Lambodar Nath Tickoo, the first educated Pandit who took to Tailoring, was son of Sh. Laxman Joo Tickoo, the architect of BC Road. After graduation Pt. Lambodar went to Bombay to learn tailoring. On return he started his own shop 'Navyug Tailoring Firm' at Kothi Bagh. He also launched an Urdu daily'Navyug' under the editorship of Sh. Nand Lal Wattal. Due to some reasons the paper had to close down. Pt. Hriday Nath Orga, a well-known trade union leader, also used to live in this mohalla.
Malchimar:
This mohalla is located just close to Ali Kadal bridge on way to Budhgair and Reshipeer mohallas. Leading personalities of this mohalla included Mohammed Abdullah Tibet Bakal, a leading Sufiana Musician, Mufti Qwam-ud-Din, Mufti Azam Kashmir, his nephew Mufti Bashir-ud-Din, Saif-ud-Din Basoo, a leading wholesale dealer at Maharaj Ganj, Ghulam Hassan Basoo, former Conservator Forests, Pt. Shamboo Nath Ladakhi, an eminent educationist.
Among Pandits Happa, Dudhas and Qazi clans also lived here. Birbal Qazi was a transporter. Amarnath Happa was an official in Prime Minister's office during the tenure of Pt. RC Kak. Sh. Ganesh Das Dudha was a Goldsmith.
Buch Mohalla:
This mohalla is adjacent to Budhgair mohalla and is named after the famous clan 'Buch'. This family has been among the richest families of Srinagar city. Their trading activities extended to Yarkhand, Central Asia, Ladakh, etc. The family had built palatial residential buildings.
Razouri Kadal:
The bridge and the mohalla stand on the bank of what was once Nalla Mar, the main waterway of the city. During summers this canal used to have good water and served as the main artery of transport. 'Behats' (merchandise boats) and Shikaras used to be a common sight here. 'Behatas' were used for ferrying essential commodities--Firewood, bricks, stones, timber etc. to Hazratbal, Naseem Bagh and other adjoining places.
Moulvi Mohammad Yusuf's residential house 'Mirwaiz Manzil' was situated in this mohalla. Mirwaiz Yusuf Shah had two brothers--Moulvi Ateequallah and Moulvi Rasool Shah. Moulvi Yusuf Shah would perform the duties of Mirwaiz while Moulvi Ateequallah set up an educational institution 'Anjuman-Nusrat-ul-Islam'. This organisation started Islamia High School at Razouri Kadal. It also set up some Middle schools on other parts of the Valley.
Many Kashmiri Pandit families lived in the vicinity of Mirwaiz Manzil. Among these was one of Pt. Jia Lal Choudhary, a leading advocate of his time and father of renowned physician, Dr. K.L. Choudhary. Sh. Shamboo Nath Choudhary was a clerk in judicial department. Bhans also lived here. Dr. Ali Mohammed Jan, the greatest physician Kashmir has ever produced, was also born here.
Subsequently, during the time of Mirwaiz Farooq Mirwaiz family shifted to Nageen, in the vicinity of Hazratbal.
Wazapora:
This locality which is in close vicinity of Razouri Kadal derives its name from Wazas, the master cooks of Kashmir. These master cooks or Wazas were called Ashpazas. Clan of Wazas have been living here for many generations. The proprietor of Ahdoo and sons, the leading hotel of Srinagar, also hails from this locality. Traditionally, the Waza clan has been politically associated with Mirwaiz Kashmir. Another leading trader of Wazapora was Kh. Azim-ud-Din Mantoo. His shop, dealing in wholesale business, was located at Maharaj Ganj.
Prominent Kashmiri Pandit families of Wazapora locality were Bhan, Charagi, Khashoo, Karvani, Raina, Budki. Late Dina Nath Khushoo used to deal in Pharmaceuticals, while his younger brother, Prithvi Nath Khushoo was a wholesale dealer, selling hosiery and other Muniari items. He ran shop at Maharaja Bazar under the title M/s Kins Brothers. Jagar Nath Charagi's shop at Maisuma, titled 'M/s Mahavir Trading Agency', dealth with general merchandise. Sh. Nilakanth Budki was an official of Kashmir Govt. Arts Emporium, while his brother was a petition writer.
Sheikh Mohalla:
This mohalla was also adjacent to Razouri Kadal. Four Pandit families lived in Sheikh Mohalla. Pt. Kailash Kaul, a reputed teacher and father of veteran journalist CB Kaul lived here. Another prominent personality of this mohalla was Sh. Soom Nath Raina, an official in Indian Airlines. His father-in-law Sh. Lamboodhar KadalBujoo had a stint as an editor of 'Martand'. Among others Qazi Saifuddin and Qazi Mohammed Yusuf, both professors lived here.
Khankah-e-Sokhta:
THIS mohalla in the vicinity of Safakadal the 7th bridge owes its importance to being the birth place Mata Roopa Bhawani, the great saint-poetess of Kashmir in 17th century. She was daughter of Pt. Madhav Joo Dhar, a resident of this mohalla. Mata Roopa Bhawani was an ardent devotee of Goddess Sharika, the presiding deity of Srinagar city. Roopa Bhawani's temple stands here.
The well-known feudal clan of Dhars hailed from this mohalla. The palatial buildings of this clan which stand to this day attest to their immense affluence. The temple in the mohalla was also built by them. The leading personalities of the clan included Pt. Birbal Dhar, who guided Sikhs to Kashmir, Pt. Bal Kak Dhar, former Wazir-e-Wazarat, Sh. DP Dhar, a well-known politician and former ambassador to Soviet Union, Maj. General (Retd.) BN Dhar etc.
The other prominent members of this clan were Rai Bahadur Shyam Sunder Lal Dhar, former Panchayat and Development officer, Sh. Ratan Lal Dhar, former Director Food and Supplies, Pt. Manmohan Nath, a senior official in Maharaja's administration, Pt. Ramchand Dhar, an eminent educationist, Pt. Krishan Joo Dhar, former Director Flood Control, Sh. Janki Nath Dhar, Sh. Shamboo Nath Dhar, noted advocate and former President Srinagar Municipality (born Braripora, Nawakadal). Sh. Dina Nath Dhar, former Head Master and proprietor of Normal press at Lal Chowk etc.
The ace-cricketer Pt. Ramchand Tickoo also lived in this mohalla. His eldest son Sh. Prithvi Nath Tickoo was gunned down by the terrorists in May 1990. Late Nand Lal 'Begarz', the eminent teacher and the first to write a short story in Kashmiri also lived at Khankah-e-Sokhta. His nephew Prof. Nilakanth Lala Raina, whom he had taken in adoption, was a scholar of eminence. He was a trained historian. His essay on 'Northern Areas' was widely appreciated. In 1990 when fundamentalist insurgency erupted Prof Raina did not want to leave Kashmir. He was gunned down by terrorists for his refusal to leave Kashmir.
Sh. Niranjan Nath Razdan, the proprietor of Mercantile Press, Kothi Bagh also lived here. His father Sh. Madho Ram Razdan had published the religious texts of Kashmiri Hindus in Urdu and Kashmiri. Pt. Niranjan Nath had started an English daily, 'New Kashmir'. This paper practised fearless journalism and was forced to close down.
Nawakadal:
Prominent politician - Moulvi Abbas Ansari, a Shia cleric and Bakshi Ghulam Mohammad, former Chief Minister of J&K, belonged to this mohalla. Well-known hakim of his time, Pt. Sansar Chand Hakim also lived here. He was an employee of Accountant General's office.
On the left bank of Jehlum were located many mohallas - Gurgari Mohalla, Dab Tal, Rehbabsab, Sehyar, Ganz Khud and Qutab-Din-Pora etc.
Gurgari Mohalla:
Prominent personalities of this mohalla included Pt. Anand Kaul Bamzai, Saint Swami Nand Lal (of Tikker), Pt. Prem Nath Kanaw, former editor of Urdu daily 'The Martand', Sh. Lamboodhar Kaul Kadalbujoo, also an editor of 'The Martand' Doyen of Kashmir archeology and former Prime Minister, Pt. RC Kak was also born in Gurgari Mohalla.
Pt. Anand Kaul Bamzai was a noted historian and first president of Srinagar Municipality. He was moving spirit behind the enactment of Municipality bylaws. His son, Pt. PN Kaul Bamzai initially served as Science teacher in MP Higher Secondary School. Later, he moved to Delhi and retired as a senior official in Information and Broadcasting Ministry, Govt. of India. He also authored many books on Kashmir, which included 'A history of Kashmir', 'Kashmir from Lake success to Tashkent', 'Kashmir and Central Asia', 'Socio-economic history of Kashmir under Dogras' etc. Another member of Bamzai clan, Sh. Kashi Nath Bamzai, was correspondent of Blitz in 1947 and served as Press Advisor to Pt. Nehru after 1947. Sh KN Bamzai retired as Registrar Newspapers of India. Sh Bamzai's grandchildren-Sandeep Bamzai and Kavaree Bamzai too are senior journalists in Delhi. The former is author of 'Bonfire Kashmiriat', a major contribution to historiography of Kashmir, while the latter is Deputy Editor of 'India Today'.
Sh. Hriday Nath Bamzai, younger brother of Sh. KN Bamzai moved to Bombay while he was still a student of 7th Class. He changed his name to'Hari Kashmiri'. but failed to make his mark as an actor. Then he set up his own business - supplying extra actors to film companies. 'Hari Kashmiri' was very friendly to extra artists, helping them in every way possible. He would pay these artists liberally. It earned him tremendous popularity. This munificence earned him the wrath of rival suppliers who used to cheat extra artists of their wages. A conspiracy was hatched to assassinate him. Hriday Nath left behind a widow and a son.
Pt. Ram Kaul's son - Pt. Damodhar Kaul was an employee of AG's office. Subsequently, he started a big concern-'Martand Trading Agency' at Mahraj Ganj. This company dealt in paper and cutlery on wholesale basis. Pt. Hari Kaul was a govt. teacher. He left his job to join 'Martand Trading Agency'. After a while he started his own business at Mahraj Ganj under the title 'M/s Hari Kaul and Sons'.
Pt. Kina Kaul alias Kinat Sahib, a reputed teacher too hailed from Gurgari Mohalla. Pt. Triloki Nath Kaul, a resident of this mohalla served 'TheHindustan Times' and 'The Times of India' with distinction in the capacity of Sub-Editor. After passing his graduation in 1946 from Punjab University Sh. TN Kaul served as a teacher in Quetta (Baluchistan). In 1947 he returned to India and lived in Kingsway camp (Delhi) before shifting to Malika Ganj, Pt. TN Kaul has authored many books. Few years back he passed away at the age of 90.
Chaku clan also hails from Gurgari mohalla. Sh. Sona Kaul Chaku, a scion of this clan was a teacher. He had two sons--Prithvi Nath and Janki Nath. Both of them started their career as teachers. Later, Sh. PN Chaku joined SP College as Professor after passing MA in Economics. He moved to Delhi and retired as Secretary, GoI.
Dab Tal Mohalla:
This mohalla is situated between Ganz-Khod and Gurgari mohalla. Sansar Chand Kaul, an advocate hailed from this mohalla. His younger brother, Sh. Niranjan Nath Kaul was an Income Tax lawyer. Sh. Chuni Lal Kaul S/o Sh. Sansar Chand Kaul, is a lawyer, presently based in Jammu. Sh Som Nath Kaul, who migrated to Himachal Pradesh, retired as Headmaster.
The other well-known Pandit family who lived here was of Bhats. Sh. Gopi Nath (Mugloo) retired as Headmaster of a Govt. High School. His son Pt. Omkar Nath Bhat worked as a Professor in Vishwa Bharti College, Rainawari (Srinagar). The latter had a brief stint in Journalism when he worked as Assistant Editor of the weekly 'Rehnuma' and 'Desh'. For a while he also worked as a script writer with Radio Kashmir.
Sehyar Mohalla:
This mohalla is located opposite Rehbab Sahib. The well known Kaul clan lived here. It included Pt. Hargopal Kaul 'Khasta' (Sher-e-Kashmir), Pt. Shiv Narayan Fotedar, Pt. Shamboo Nath Kaul (Vakil) and his two sons--Pushkar Nath Pyare Lal, Advocate and author of four books on contemporary history of Kashmir. Renowned teacher and first Headmaster of CMS School, Fateh Kadal, Pt. Shankar Pandit also lived here. Others who lived here included, Pt. Shivjee Kaul, a Govt. teacher. His son Sh. Kashi Nath Kaul, B.A.B.T. retired as T.E.O. Sh. KN Kaul was General Secretary of Samaj Sudhar Samiti, Chota Bazar, Srinagar. He also authored many books.
Ganz - khod:
Eminent personalities of this mohalla included Pt. Amar Nath Ganjoo, a well-known RSS leader and Chaman Lal Kaul, a high official in ONGC, presently settled at Mumbai.
Wattal-Kadal:
Wattal Kadal lies between Safakadal and Nawakadal. Pandita-Kaul family lived here. Of the three brothers Nand Lal was secretary to Govt. Sh. Bishamber Nath retired as Supdt. Police while Sh. Radhakrishan was an eminent educationist and retired as Headmaster Govt. High School, Bagh-e-Dilawar Khan, Srinagar. This family had a tonga. Sh. Bishamber had been trained by Scotland Yard and used to be immacutaely dressed.
Jamalata:
This mohalla is located between Sehyar and Nawakadal. It was in Jamalata Chowk. In 1953 the then senior NC leader Gh. Mohi-ud-Din Qarra addressed a public meeting and raised pro-Pak slogans. This stunned the audience. The then Prime Minister (Chief Minister) Sheikh Mohammed Abdullah, was watching at that time a cultural programme at Govt. Girls Higher Secondary School, Nawakadal, quite near to the venue. The well-known clan of Mozas (Dattatrey Kauls) originally hailed from Jamalata. It was from here they migrated to different places.
Shorgari Mohalla:
It lies between Jamalata Chowk and Nawa Bazar bridge on the left side. Khwaja Mohammed Maqbool Pandit, then Wazir-e-Wazarat lived here. He had a palatial bungalow. His eldest son, Bashir Ahmed Pandit after passing his B.A. migrated to Pakistan. He passed away at Lahore a few years back. The other son. Mr. Mohd. Shafi Pandit, an IAS officer is presently serving as Chairman J&K Public Service Commission. Kh. Maqbool Pandit had constructed another grand building near Govt. Medical College, Srinagar. This was later on sold to Khadi Ashram. Jamal Siraj, a leading carpet manufacturer also hailed from Shorgari mohalla.
Qutub Din Pora:
Across Zaina Kadal Bridge near Gurgari mohalla lies the mohalla of Qutabdinpora. Hakim Ahmedullah, popularly known as 'Ama Hakim', was a native of this place. Patients came from distant corners of Kashmir to get treated by this renowned Hakim. Unfortunately, his son-in-law, Peerzada Ghulam Rasool, who retired as Headmaster State High School, Bagh-e-Dilawar Khan, passed away at an early age. Hakim Sahib became unconsolable due to this tragic incident. He affixed a paper at his clinic, describing that day as the most sorrowful one. Peerzada Ghulam Rasool's son, rose to be the Chief Engineer of PDD and also served as Chairman National Grid Corporation of India. Ama Hakim had two sons--Dr. Haffizullah, an allopathic doctor who died in an aircrash at Huin Heng and Hakim Qudratullah, a Unani Hakim. Dr. Hafizullah was a devotee of Swami Lakhman Joo, the Shaivite scholar and saint.
Srinagar in 1930s and 1940s - Glimpses of Social Life
By Shamboo Nath Gurkha
It is a daunting task to recapture the social life we lived in Kashmir in 1930s and 1940s. So much has changed over the past 6-7 decades. 1947 is a watershed in the history of Kashmir. It not only marked the transition of Kashmir from autocracy to popular democracy, but also created conditions for Kashmir's plebian society to rapidly become a modern one. Purchasing power of the common Kashmiri increased manifold. Media, both print and the electronic, exposed Kashmiris to outside influences. Education also had far reaching impact on Kashmiri society. Growing economy opened up Kashmiri society, Kashmiris began interacting with others as never before. In this essay an attempt is being made to acquaint the new generation of Kashmiris with the sort of life Kashmiris lived in the previous decades when amenities of modern living were not available.
Daily Life:
People were early risers. They would get up in the wee hours and go to their respective places of worship. On return, they would fetch Kashmiri bakery from their respective bakers (Kandur). Since Kashmiris preferred to buy breakfast bread from the baker, it was not unusual to see people in ques at the baker's shop, waiting for their turn to purchase bread. After visiting the bakers the people would collect milk from the local milkman (Goor).
The morning breakfast was usually light. Employees used to take lunch at 9 AM. They were very punctual in attending the duties, latecomers were taken to task by their superiors. The labourers/carpenters (Chhan) Masons (Dasil) etc. used to carry food alongwith them in their tiffon (Ganjbana). Women attended to the domestic chores - house cleaning, clothwashing, husking paddy (Dhanya Munun) as few rice mills were available. The ladies also had to carry water from the nearby stream/river. Some families would arrange professional water-carriers (Paniyur).
At 6 AM vegetable growers would carry their produce-Hak and other vegetables to different parts of the city for sale. Large portion of vegetable land in Srinagar was reserved for Hak (Saag) and Monji (Kadam). Hak of Kawdara used to be superb and quite sweet. In Ali Kadal quarter two ladies Jigri and Zoona would bring big fatus of Hak on their heads from Kawdara.
Boat shopkeepers also brought their merchandise in the morning for sale. It used to be carried in big boats called Khochoos. They would attract buyers by shouting 'Gaer Ha', 'Mong Hai', 'Muth Ha', 'Makai Ha', 'Razma Ha', 'Warimuth Ha' etc. Ghat of Ram Kolun Yarbal in Srinagar city was a common place for this type of merchandise. Those days people did not use soap routinely, they preferred particular type of clay. Boats carrying Goret miech (a particular clay) were seen every other day. It was purchased mostly by Kashmiri Hindus. The seller carried it in fatus. Pandits used it for house cleaning, hand washing and ritual purposes. Other items of daily use were also sold through these 'moving' shops.
A non-Kashmiri Halwai (sweet seller) was often seen roaming around in the streets of Srinagar. He used to carry 'Halwa' (Sweet pudding) in a box and would recite Urdu verses to attract customers. He would say, 'Zara Aa Ke Dekho Mein Kya Bechta Hoon' (come to see what I sell), "Mein Khuyeh Walla Halwa Bava Halwa Bechta Hoon'.
In summers temperature hardly exceeded 340C. No electric (table/ceiling) fans were available. Hand fans (Wavaej) were used to have cooling effect. In summers sodagars (chhapdi farosh) were seen carrying on their heads baskets of 'snow (yakh)'. In colloquial Kashmiri they would say 'Kamiy Vana Volmakhu Yakho' , Yakho' (Ice from which forest I have brought you!), 'Kana Dur Garyo, 'Wah Yakho Wah Wah Yakho' (Ice, should I prepare earings for you), to attract customers. These sodaghars used to store snow in winter months in deep wells in Harvan forests. For daily use they would carry it in baskets.
One baker Sita Ram would be on the streets around mid-day to sell different brands of biscuits and bread. He carried these in a small box on his head. A middle-aged Muslim gentleman also roamed in the city with a book written in Kashmiri.
Twice a week two male strangers would be seen in Pandit mohallas, particularly around 9-10 AM. Their heads used to be covered with blankets. They would enter houses of Pandits and say 'Meh Asih Cheeza' (I want something) They were turned off by offering them a cup (Khos) of rice.
'Sadhmakars' would move in a group. Their attire looked quite comical - Multicoloured long chogas (gowns), with caps on their heads. They would come to Pandit houses once a week. The head of the group would be an old man with white beard (safed resh). On entering the Pandit house he would loudly shout 'Jai Gosaen', 'Jai Gosaen' Chuh Anganas Manz Deetav Deetav, Vishnarpan'. After receiving a cup of rice, the 'Sadhmakar' would shower blessings on the family.
Also seen were 'Ladishah'. And non-Kashmiri Sadhus would come as snake-charmers. Ladishah wore white poch (gown) and white Muslim turban. He carried an iron staff with bangles, and would, after entering the compound of Pandits, recite few Kashmiri verses comically to entertain the family members. He would leave after receiving a cup of rice. The snakecharmer used to carry a snake in a coir basket and would make snake dance to the tune of his flute. At other times some people from the villages carried monkey or bear with them. They would visit different mohallas and entertain people by making monkey/bear play different games.
Lower income group ladies used to wear Pulhuro (grass chappels), woven in feet from soft and fine grass. Rich families used to wear leather shoes, which cost Rs 2 and 12 Annas per pair. Only members of feudal elite and the affluent people wore 'flex shoes', while middle income groups would wear canvas/cloth shoes (12 annas per pair) in summer. In winter they wore Bata rubber shoes (Rs 1-4 anna per pair). The butcher class used to wear black leather hard shoes, 'Puj Pazaar'.
Religious Life:
Both Pandits and Muslims were God-fearing, religious in outlook. They woke up early to go to temples and mosques to offer prayers. Good number of people in Srinagar city visited Hari Parbat early morning daily, while Muslims, would visit Makhdoom Sahib and Sikhs the Chati Padshahi. The ringing of bells in temples, Azan in mosques and Shabad Kirtan in Gurudwara provided a serene ambience, which also reminded about pluralistic character of Kashmirian society. Those days no loudspeakers were fitted in places of worship.
Pandits immersed ashes of the dead mostly at Shadipur, while some went to Gangabal. There were no special arrangements for Gangabal Yatra at the Governmental level. In 1947 there was no yatra due to tribal raid.
The plebian society had strong faith in soothsayers. Quite a few of them were popular with the people. Sona Mout and Mama Kaloo would roam bazaars of Srinagar city. Sona Mout wore a dirty poch (inner of pheran) and carried an earthern pot filled with charcoal on his left shoulder. He would hurl choicest abuses and talk rough. His face had fearsome look, people would feel scared. Sona Mout lived in the house of Pt. Shirdhar Joo, Ex-Conservator Forests at Rehbab Sab, Nowakadal, Srinagar. Prominent disciples of this mastana included Dr. Gwasha Lal Koul, renowned physician, Kh. Gh. Mohammad and his son proprietor of M/s Gh. Mohd. Noor Mohd. and Noor Mohd. Sons, Booksellers, Mahraj Ganj, Srinagar.
Another mastana was nicknamed 'Boundrich'. He used to roam mostly in Sumbal but would also visit Srinagar city.While roaming he would loudly shout 'Boundrich'.
Mama Kaloo was seen mostly in Ali Kadal area. His refrain was 'Allah Hoo'! ‘Allah Hoo! I have seven daughters, Oh God, kindly arrange their marriages, Allah Hoo! Zikre-Dam Peera Boztam". Some other distinguished religious pesonalities with exalted spiritual powers included - Saboor Sab (Tulmulla), Kash Kak (Manigam), Bhagwan Gopinath (Gadud Bagh), Nanda Mout, Swami Nand Lal, Grata Bab, Shiv Ratangir, Mathra Devi, Sati Maech, Devid w/o Late DN Raina, Proprietor of Remington Typwriters. These people had lot many disciples. These mastanas, as per their disciples, possessed powers which instantaneously solved the problems of their murids. Swami Lakshman Joo was a leading Shaiva scholar at Ishbar. Pandits and Muslims used to go to Moulvi Atiquallah for 'Taweez' (amulet).
Marriages :
Marriages were settled through middleman, called manzimyor. For Pandits the job was performed by Muslim barbers. One such young person was quite popular-Gh. Mohd. the Dwarf. He wore sharahi yezar (sherwani), a white turban, a short coat with a white cotton chadar around his shoulders. He used to carry dozens of Teknis in a Khaki bag hung on his left shoulder. The bride's father or the head of the family would take 2-3 teknis of prospective grooms from the middleman and then match these through their Kulpurohit.The two families enquired about each others' antecedents and exchange Kulawalis(status list of each families relations). After the families were satisfied, then confirmation was conveyed through Gh. Mohd. the middleman. After the nod from boy's family, the middleman would visit bride's side and wish them'mubarak' on the formal acceptance of proposal by groom's family.
The Kulpurohit would then decide the auspicious date for gandun (engagement) and lagan (wedding day). Gandun was performed at a temple or at the house of some relation of groom's family with austerity. Only 5-6 close relations were called and served tea and Takhtachi (Kashmiri Baker delicacy). Then an elderly person of groom's family would present a bunch of flowers, poshgond to his counterpart from bride's family. They would embrace each other. Then the elder person from bride's side would reciprocate the exchange of Poshgond. After the completion of tea session and other related formalities, the father of the groom or the head of the family would give a pledge that his family would treat the bride as his own daughter. He would also assure that his family members would not demand anything as part of dowry. On this assurance, the bride's side would profusely thank groom's side. Before dispersal the bride's side would offer 11 Kands (candy), 1 kg of Almond, 2 kgs of Sugar and 11 breads to groom's side.
The lagan ceremony too was solemnised in a simple manner. The Baratis were served a 7-8 course meal, no cold drinks or tea was served. During rot lagan. (night reception of Barat) the groom's side would prepare their own tea. The bridegroom would wear Achkan, a chooridar Pyjama and Kesari turban. These articles were usually borrowed from a nearby rais (wealthy person), who would gladly lend these to his neighbour. The groom would lead the barat and used to be mounted on horse first. Muslim biradari also borrowed choga, shilnswar, green turban from a nearby rais.
Amusement and Entertainment:
People were generally poor. They visited Mughal gardens and other parks for picnics. The melodious voices of Abbabel and Bulbul heralded the beginning of summer. Peculiar flowers with yellowish hue in graveyards and yemberzel and Nargis elsewhere would blossom in early summer. Buds of almond tree,badam, phulai, would first sprout near Hari Parbat, Ganesh temple and Devi Angan, Waris Khanun Chah garden and Badami Bagh, Zewan, Khrew etc. On Sundays Pandits and Muslims would throng to Devi Angan and Badam Wari (Waris Khanun Chah area) with Samovar, food and other eatables. Little girls would collect the petals of almond flowers, make garlands with needle and thread and then put these around their neck. To entertain the people, who had come to see the Badam Phulay (blooming of Almond flowers), Pandit and Muslim halwais used to put up their stalls in tents. Pandit halwai would prepare Luchis of maida (fried bread) and nadar munji (Lotus stalk pakodas). Muslim halwais prepared parathas and fried Mungfuli. Other vendors would roast raw singhara (waternuts) on fire prepared by grass and serve these to visitors. They would crush the roasted singharas with the help of two small stones.
Fairs would put spice into the otherwise dull life of poverty-stricken Kashmiris. They would participate in large numbers. Muslims visited Dastgir Sahib and Makhdoom Sahib on the occasion of Urs of the two saints. On the occasion of Mehraj-ul-Alam, Milad-ul-Nabi lakhs of Muslims would throng to Hazratbal to have deedar of Moi Muqadas. Pandits used to go to Tulmulla on the day of Jyesth Ashtami and also on Ashtami days. They would also go to Khrew to pay obeisance to Goddess Jwala. Sadhus in good numbers used to come for Amarnath Yatra. A month before yatra sadhus and sanyasis would throng to Srinagar and stay at Durga Nag, Dashnami Akhara and other mohalla temples. This event was keenly watched by natives of Srinagar.
Around spring time Pandits celebrated Navreh, Zang Trai and Ramnavmi. On festivals of Ramnavmi and Mahanavmi (Autumn), Pandits used to visit Hari Parbat and the Akbar's Fort on the hillock. The fort would remain open for all the nine days on these occasions, the fort temple housed an image of Goddess Kali.
Dussehra used to be celebrated officially at Chandmari (Khar Maidan-Ass Ground), Tattoo Ground at Batmalinu. The place is now used as Transport yard. One week before Dussehra effigies of Ravana, Kumbakarna and caricature of Lanka were prepared with Bamboo sticks and stuffed with crackers. At 4 PM the jawans of the state forces would line up at the Tattoo ground. Maharaja Hari Singh, seated on horse, would take the salute and then sit in a specially decorated Shamiana. He would be received by his cabinet ministers, civil and military officials, besides, the distinguished citizens. After sunset 'Lord Rama', seated on a decorated rath would pass near the effigies and shoot arrows at these. Within minutes fires would breakout and effigies would perish. In the evening. Maharaja would host the prominent gentry, his ministers and officials and present a sovenior coin to each of them.
Maharaja Hari Snigh's birthday was celebrated with great pomp and show. On this day 1 kg of rice was distributed free to poor people. Students of all government schools, dressed in Kapuri colour turbans, would be present at different ghats from Amirkadal to Chattabal. Maharaja, after offering puja in Gadadhar Temple, would mount a specially decorated boat, Parinda, rowed by 100 oarmen. The Oarmen were attired in ceremonial uniform. At different ghats students used to raise slogans 'Hip Hip Hurrah', 'Mahraj Bahadur Ki Jai', 'Long Live Maharaja'. Maharaja would respond by raising his right hand, and salute them.
From Chattabal (weir) Maharaja would move to palace in a car. A Durbar was held in evening at Durbar Hall, Shergarhi. Members of Cabinet, Civil and Military officians and prominent citizens would present nazrana of 1 pound.
Cheaper entertainment was also available. A middle-aged Muslim gentlemen, would roam streets of Srinagar with poet Mehjoor's book in his hand. He would in particular recite poet’s 'Bagh-e-Nishat Keh Gulo-Naz Kran Kran Wali' (This poem was published in Mehjoor's collection by M/s Gh. Mohd. Noor Mohd. and Sons, Mahraj Ganj, Srinagar). Subsequently, this poem was recorded by Hindustan company. Affluent people would hear it on their gramophones.
A 'Behrupia' would present varying poses of two sides of his face. This would provide comic entertainment to people. They presented him a 'paisa each. One Jabbar Chanta, a middle aged person from Dalhasanyar had suffered hemiparesis. Because of facial palsy he had been nicknamed Jabbar Chanta. He would be seen at many functions, fairs and Urs of different Sufi saints. He used to carry a bioscope machine on his left shoulder. At the function he would yell 'German Chhu Jang Karan (Germany is at war)', 'Sah (Lion) is roaming in jungle,' while exhibiting various soundless pictures to the audience. He would receive 1 paisa per show.
In 1931 there were only two Cinema halls-Regal and Palladium in Srinagar and seasonal one at Gulmarg. In 1940 Krishen Bal, Proprietor of Regal Talkis constructed one more cinema hall-Amresh Talkies. The charges for class III ticket was 4 annas (25 paisa).
Communications:
Before 1947 Jehlum Valley Road and Banihal Cart Road (then open for 6 months only) linked Kashmir to the northern India. The last destination for the former was Rawalpindi and fare was Rs 5. Two Transport Companies--Nanda Bus, Charag Din and Sons used to operate passenger and goods services on BC Road to Jammu.
Nala Mar Canal with its arterial network linked different parts of Srinagar city and boat was main mode of transport in the city. Nala Mar extended from Shelteng to Gadroo, Tulmulla and passed via Habbakadal, Baba demb, Mangleshwar Bhairav, Bagh Dilwar Khan, Khushal Sar etc. It divided Srinagar city into two parts. 5 bridges-Naidkadal, Bohri Kadal, Saraf Kadal, Kadikadal and Razvori Kadal spanned across it. Canal used to be dry in winter months. In summers shopkeepers brought their house building material of green dry grass, firewood, timber, bricks, stones etc, besides firewood in big boats called Khochoos to different ghats. Canal also provided transport to Pandits to go to Tulmulla after passing through Bohri Kadal, Razouri Kadal, Kawdara, Aali Masjid, Idgah, Gadroo. The journey was covered in Doonga.
Essential Commodities:
Vegetables-Karela, Tori, Beans, Cucumber, Watermelon, Potato and other vegetables sold for one anna per seer. Apples, Apricot, Cherry etc also were sold at this rate. The same was the price for Moong Dal, Dried Beans, Muth, Peas and dried Waternuts. Flour used to cost 8 p per seer. The price of fish was 6 p per seer and that for gooran (small fish) 2 p per seer. Rs 1 bought six maunds of firewood, edible oil would cost Rs 1 Re and 12 annas for 5 seers and 3 chatanks. The price of different items was: Rs 2.7 Annas per Khirwar (83 seers), Sugar-6 old paise per 250 gms, Tea leaves, Kahwa and Sheerchai-5 p per pau, washing soap: 5 p per pav, Meat-6 p per pav in summer and 7 in winter, bread 80 for 1 rupee, Milk and Curds-5 p per seer, Brinjals 250 for Re 1, Rocksalt: 9 seers for Re 1, Lotus roots (Nadru)-6 p per one gedi (Dal Lake) and 5 p for that of Anchar Lake, Cheese-1 seer for 1 Anna, Karamsag-1 Anna per seer, white cotton (Latha), Chabichap and Shermarka sold for 4 annas per yard. The cost of Militia and night cloth was 2½ annas per yard. This cloth was nicknamed Gari Vugra. The price of Japanese silk (Boski) was 4 annas per yard. The rates for Dhusa (Pashmina), Rafal Sari and Silk Sari were Rs 25, Rs 5 and Rs 3 respectively.
The umbrella would cost 12 Annas, while price of an electric lamp was 10 p. The gold sold at Rs 30 per Tola and Silver at 8 Annas per Tola.
Heads and legs of sheep were sold by selected butchers called 'Kalhari Puj'. Flies were seen swarming, all over. These butchers would shout 'Batar Maaz' to attract poor customers among scavengers. This meat sold at a pav per anna.
Currency:
British currency was used in J&K. Common denomination was Rs 1 coin (pure silver), 8 Annas (32 p), 4 Adhay paise (96 paise), 4 Annas (made of silver included 16 p, 32 adhay paise and 48 paise). Re 1 coin included 192 pais. In J&K State pais were not used. Before British currency Chilki Rupee was in use. It is said that two centuries ago an elephant owner was roaming in Srinagar city. He wanted to sell his animal and had priced it at 1 Kodi (Har). Not a single person came forward to purchase his elephant. In rural areas barter system was in vogue, while in Srinagar currency was being used for purchase of commodities. There was no paper currency for denominations of Re 1 and Re 2 but Rs 5, 10 and 100 were available in paper currency.
Breaking out of IInd World War pushed the prices of essential commodities up sharply. Average Kashmiri was hit hard by the rise in prices of rice, cloth, flour etc. Blackmarketers, hoarders would dump their stocks and then sold these at exorbitant prices. State Govt. took strong notice of it. It set up Supplies Deptt and appointed Sh. JN Zutshi, later DG Information, as Controller Supplies. Rationing was introduced for essential commodities, cloth, k.oil and sold at government rates on ration cards.
People dealing with handicrafts, Numda making, factory owners, traders, wholesale dealers earned lakhs of rupees. They had purchased goods at low prices and sold these at high prices. These people built up huge palatial mansions and demolished centuries old houses.
In the period 1931-1946, 90% population in Srinagar city lived below poverty line. Unemployment was rampant. Labourers received low wages and could not make two ends meet Commodities were cheap, yet majority of Kashmiris lived below subsistence level.
Purchasing power was low. People were resigned to their fate and attributed poverty to supernatural forces.
In 1939 with the onset of economic depression due to war, the British Indian government introduced currency denominations of Rs 1 and Rs 2 and withdrew silver currency. Traders and labourers made good money. Govt. employees faced hardship. To ease their problem Dearness allowance was introduced for the first time in J&K.
In 1940 one morning a Markhban from Budgam came to Srinagar with two bags of 'Mushkbuj' (flavoured rice) laden on his horse. It was high quality rice with pleasant taste and smell. He wanted to sell it for Rs 2-12 Anns, people were willing to pay 4 Annas lesser. However, Markhban agreed. Meanwhile, some ladies took handful of rice near their noses for smell. Markhban took strong offence to it. He then went to other parts of city but could not find buyer for his special rice. He then prayed that there be bad harvest for shali (Paddy). He felt the prices would then skyrocket and Srinagar city people would learn a lesson for life. A week later heavy rains followed by flash floods destroyed the shali crops. Rice went out of market. Blackmarketers and hoarders had a hayday, minting money by selling rice at exorbitant prices.
In 1934 Pt. PK Wattal started Woollen Mills at Shirin Bagh-‘Shri Karan Singh Woollen Mills'. Hundreds of skilled/unskilled Kashmiris found employment in it. Workers were paid six Annas (36 p). Since the prices of essential commodities were less, workers were generally satisfied.
Joint family system was the norm. Usually one member of the family was bread earner, serving either in Govt. or Pvt. Institution. Silk Factory was started by the State Govt. at Raj Bagh. It provided employment to hundreds of Kashmiris. Prior to it Raja Upinder Kishan Koul had started two factories-Match Factory and Pharmaceutical Factory at Baramulla, where many people were employed. After World War II Defence Ministry of GOI opened recruitment centres for taking soldiers and labourers.
‘Jabri’ schools were started by Maharaja Hari Singh for imparting free and compulsory education to people. The government provided free books, notebooks, slates, wooden Takhties etc. to enrol students. However, the educated youth did not have sufficient jobs available.
Radio:
Soon after the outbreak of IInd World War, BBC and Radio Berlin started daily broadcasts in Hindi at 7:45 PM and 8 PM respectively. BBC underplayed German advances. The listerners would get confused. In general people had sympathy for Germans and hate for the British.
At first, there were only six Radiosets in Srinagar City-Maharaja, SP College and the other 4 belonged to affluent gentry. The common people would listen to broadcasts in compounds of rich people to the BBC and Radio Berlin news.
Meanwhile, 'Himalaya Soas’ also installed a Radio set for workers at their Shirin Bagh factory premises, near Woollen Mills Karan Nagar. Residents of Shirin Bagh and Chattabal used to come to listen to Radio here. Even such prominent people-DN Raina, Shyam Lal Chrungoo, Bishamber Nath Kaul, Dina Nath Mirakhor, Dr Jia Lal Koul and Makhan Lal Matto (presently at Mumbai) used to come here)
Sanitation and Health Care:
There was no proper water supply scheme one and a half centuries ago in Srinagar city or other villages. People used Jehlum water for drinking, bathing and washing purposes. In rural areas streams and springs served the utility. During the rule of Maharaja Pratap Singh water works department came into existence. Harvan Reservoir was built to provide clean water to residents of Srinagar. It was fed by Marsar nullah. When it started old ladies felt astonished on seeing underground pipes. They would exclaim:
"Vuchtav Angrezav Kiyah Kari sal
Nalka dabavikh Zaminas tal"
(See what trick the Englishmen have played
They have buried the tap pipes under the ground.)
The affluent people got water connections to their homes, common people made use of public taps. These taps, were provided mohalla-wise. To meet the increasing demands two more schemes-Rangil (Kangan) and Dudh Ganga water supply schemes were initiated. Subsequently, water supply schemes were extended to rural areas.
Srinagar Municipal Corporation also launched a sanitation drive. Public latrines were built in each mohalla of the city. A force of safai karamcharis were raised to clean these on daily basis. After cleaning, they would dump the excreta in big boats. From different ghats it was taken and put into deep wells. Subsequently, it was sold through bidding to vegetable growers for use as manure. This formed important revenue for SMC. Upper sections built their own latrines. Vegetable growers directly removed this excreta for use in their fields.
For overall cleanliness, SMC set up different wards, each supervised by ward officer. Sanitary supervisors were made responsible for the work done by safai karamcharis/sweepers. Sanitary Jamadars/Supervisors wore a badge on red cloth around their neck. The badge, a brass plate had 'Jamadar Safai' written on it. Sweepers used to clean the city twice a day, morning and evening. Mashkees would spray water on the roads.
For cure of flu, cough, cold, fever etc. people used to take 'Khamira, Bunafsha', 'Khamira Gulab', 'Mulhati', 'Kahzaban', 'Brandy', 'Sharbat' of Gul-e-Bunafsha'. For cure of illness people used to repose great faith in Pirs and Hakeems. Well known Hakims included Hakim Ahmadullah, Pt. Sahaz Bhat, Pt. Sham Bhat, Pt. Bal Hakim, Hakim Gulam Mohiuddin, Hakim Sansar Chand.
Tuberculosis, Typhus, Cholera would take heary toll of people's lives, Typhoid was rampant. Hakims used to charge 8 Annas (50 p) for visiting patient at home.
Leading Physician Dr. Gwasha Lal Koul, MRCP would charge Rs 5 for seeing a patient at home. Only rich people could afford this fee. Other well-known doctors of this period included - Dr. Shamboo Nath Peshin, Dr Dwarka Nath Muthoo, Dr. Janki Prasad Raina, Dr. Gopi Nath Chugtu etc. They played a pioneering role in setting up of National Hospital, Karan Nagar. Dr ON Thussu started Ratan Rani Hospital in memory of his first wife. She had died of burns at Tulmulla. There were some private clinics in the city but rural areas lacked modern health infrastructure. Missionary Hospitals at Rainawari, Drugjan, Baramulla and Anantnag served people well. Well known missionary doctors included Dr Neve, Dr Wasper, Dr Macpherson etc.
Pandit ladies would store water, made from washing rice, in a big earthern pot and then add Ajwain, muth and pepper-mint. After forty days this water was collected and named 'Kanz'. It had pleasant smell but bitter taste. It was boiled and retaken with cooked rice. Dr. Gwasha Lal Koul used to recommend this water for its 'Vitamin B content'. Some ladies used to collect water of boiled rice, called enema in local language in a big earthern pot daily and then put cooked vegetables like knol khol (Kadam/Monji), Radish and Turnip in this. The mixture collected after a week, 'Chokur' was then taken with food/cooked rice. It had also pleasant smell and bitter taste.
Society and Politics:
Till 1931 social peace prevailed. Events of 1931 and subsequently in 1934 shook the Pandit minority. However, after the riots were over, intercommunal relations got restored.
During this period NC was popular in Valley but did not have any impact in Jammu and Ladakh. Pt. Jia Lal Killam and Kashyap Bandhu were among the first to join NC. Subsequently, DP Dhar, ML Misri, NN Raina (Saraf), PN Jalali, ON Trisal joined NC. These Pandits played an important role in making 'Quit Kashmir Movement' a great success and even went to jails.
Kashmir was visited by a galaxy of national leaders in this period. They included Acharya Kriplani (147), Nehru (1938-1946), Khan Abdul Gaffar Khan, Mountbatten and Gandhi (1947) VD Savarkar and Jinnah. Dewan Chaman Lal and Asaf Ali had accompanied Nehru for taking up Sheikh Abdullah's defence. VD Savarkar, the Hindu Mahasabha to President was given a civic reception at DAV Magarmal Bagh, where he advised Kashmiri Pandits to join Hindu Mahasabha. The host and the leader of Yuvak Sabha, Pt. Shiv Narain Fotedhar opposed this suggestion arguing that the Kashmiri Pandits were in minority and had to devise their own ways.
Shri Mahraj Krishan Dhar, Governor of Kashmir, was a tough administrator. A day before Nehru's arrest, Dhar was seen personally supervising arrangements for despatching a company of Armed Forces. After paying regards to Nehru, Dhar told him, "I am your relative. Please forgive me for maintaining law and order. As such I request you to desist from entering the territory of J&K State. Comply with the orders of the ruler of J&K State, otherwise I would have to take you in custody".